Dia 6: Taking the train to Porto

Currently, I am in my room at Chalet d’Avila listening to a Fado playlist from Youtube. The music is mellow with the Spanish guitar, the lyrics emanating a feeling of longing. I had a really lovely day today, as I made the 2-3 train trek to Porto, a northern city famous for its water way port and its Port wine.

I bought my train tickets earlier this morning online. I went for first class because it isn’t much more expensive than second class and there is more room so that you are able to lay back and sleep if you need to. I somewhat forgot that it can be stressful catching the train. Unlike the metro that runs every couple of minutes in your desired direction, and flights that will often tell you your gate and terminal well in advance, as well as potentially wait a few minutes after departure time until everyone is boarded, the train only comes once and it DOES NOT WAIT. You often also can’t pull up the track online or know which track until you get to the train station. And you won’t know where your car is until the train pulls up. If you aren’t a regular traveler, it can be a bit stressful because everything moves so fast. Today I was very confused by the first train - I couldn’t tell if first class was at the beginning or end of the train. As soon as the train pulls up, everyone scatters to run to their car once they see it pass. My car’s seat numbers were also out of order so I walked to the next car because I couldn’t locate 16. Thankfully a passenger who spoke English advised me to ask one of the attendants and I went back to the same car, only to find seat 16 proceeding seats 23 and 25. Very confusing, but phew, at least I was finally in my correct seat.

Once arrived in Porto, I took the metro to the Trindade stop, which according to the maps seems to be closest to the water and downtown. Turns out that I really didn’t need to buy a ticket, as the scanners in and out of the Trindade stops are not required to enter and exit. Oh well, I was able to use it on the way back.

Porto is so artistic and so old, in the most elegant, historic way. One source I found online said that the town was founded in the year 412. Portugal is old. I walked downhill on the immaculate cobble-stone streets and followed the seagulls to the water, snapping pictures of some of the old gothic buildings while I walked. Lunch took place overlooking the port, with numerous tour bateaux and sailboats passing through. I had the most delicious seafood rice with a gigantic tiger prawn, mini-shrimp, clams, and a giant clam in the most delicious soup sauce. This was only 15 euros and I left feeling full and satisfied with the seafood, fresh and perfect once again. (I haven’t had a bad meal in Portugal, yet, and have not once doubted the freshness. The only dish I didn’t like was the shrimp cocktail I ordered in Nazaré, which I realized culturally in Portugal is chopped shrimp mixed with 1000 Island dressing over lettuce...not my thing.)

With some time to spare until my train back to Lisbon in the evening, I stopped in a little cork goods shop. Portugal is the world’s number one producer of cork aside from parts of Africa, and the Portuguese make more than just wine-stoppers with cork. When made a certain way, it is actually soft and almost feels like worn leather. And cork is waterproof. I won’t be surprised if the US starts importing cork furniture; I would love a cork club chair. Cork is also free of animal products, so it’s vegan. I stopped in MUD, a cork goods shop, and bought some souvenirs for my mom and sisters - they will see them once I get home. The shop also had the most creative-looking cork and leather stools. On our tour to Obidos, I also bought a pair of cork sandals from a specialty shop for a reasonable sum of 36 euros. I was struck by the simple, European detail and most importantly how comfortable they were. I walked several miles today and even brought a pair of back-up shoes in case the sandals didn’t wear in right away or caused blisters, but nope. They were super comfortable and sturdy, and stylish with my linen joggers if I do say so myself. :-) I bought the cork sandals when shopping with Jenny and exclaimed to her, “They even say ‘Made in Portugal!’!” The saleswoman said that yes, if they are made of cork, then they are made in Portugal because this is the only place that makes them.

While waiting for the train, I bought some Portuguese magazines from the station’s convenience store - a copy of Portugal’s Elle, and two home furnishing magazines. Giselle Bundchen was on the cover of Elle, as she is Brazilian-Portuguese. I just really love the style of Portuguese fashion and textiles. I have snapped some photos of women’s outfits that I have found quintessentially “Portugal Summer 2019.” If I can find them I will post them soon; espadrilles and block sandals are very big right now.

On the train home, I watched the Porto landscape pass, and then fell in and out of sleep as the sun went down.  Finally back in Lisbon, I freshened up and went to eat dinner again at the Green Affair vegan restaurant just outside of the hotel.  Once again, a superb dinner of soupas, cauliflower wings with a dipping sauce, a glass of vinho verde, and a chocolate cake with a glass of port. Grand total of 18,50 euros.  While eating, I researched hotels on Booking.com for the island of Madeira, and there are so many!  The pictures look like resort photos from Hawaii or Cabo, and the prices are ridiculously reasonable.  Round-trip flights to the islands from Portugal range from $300-$400 total. I am happy that this can become a reality for us when we take our next family trip out here.

Please enjoy some artistic pictures from today.  Tomorrow I will be visiting Sintra and Cascais.

Boa noite,

Alana